Local Area - From my roof before the rains
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So getting back into Gambian life......Toubab, Boss Lady, hssssss, not much had changed when I arrived back. All the shouts in the street are exactly the same. Having been away I must have started to look like a tourist again instead of a ‘local’ as the conmen version of Bumsters have been trying to get money out of me again (they failed this time, unlike on arrival in February!)
Weather here is slowly getting dryer but it is still incredibly humid and hot. The rains do still come but only maybe twice per week and in spectacular fashion! We just have to persevere until late October when it cools down again and the rains completely stop. Ironically I seem to have a problem with my water just now so much of the time my running water isn’t working. I can’t understand it but not much I can do about it other than keep filling up the buckets!
This time of year is Malaria season and so far 2 volunteers have had it (both are fine now). I am taking my tablets and doing my best to avoid getting bitten but unless you are prepared to hibernate for the rainy season then there is no chance of avoiding the mossies completely. The landscape of my local area has changed considerably over the past 2 months. You can see from the photographs that everywhere is much greener and more pleasant. I hardly notice that I live next door to the rubbish tip anymore.
We are currently in the month of Ramadan which does impact quite noticeably on day to day life here. Firstly all Muslims (about 90% of the population in The Gambia) fast completely during daylight hours (roughly 7 am to 19.30 pm). This fasting is known as sawm. As a non Muslim you are not expected to observe sawm (which includes all liquids as well as food) but it seems insensitive to eat and drink in front of local colleagues. This means that many of us ‘toubabs’ are seen hiding behind doors having sneaky swigs of water or bites to eat! It’s much harder to buy food on the street as I tended to do for breakfast and lunch each day and my journey home is much quicker as I’m so hungry by then that I’m literally racing to the fridge/cupboard to grab something, anything to eat!
In addition to fasting there are other changes to daily life. Men tend to be much stricter about their contact with women. Many colleagues won’t shake my hand at work for the moment as they are not supposed to have much contact with women other than their wives or mothers (there should be no impure thoughts during Ramadan!). Prayer time is observed much more strictly too and includes additional prayers. Many people will also pay Zakat if they can afford to do so. This means that wealth beyond what is require for day to day living is donated to the poor. It can be paid throughout the year but many Muslims calculate it during Ramadan or just observe it during this holy month.
And the goats…..they are literally tethered to everything in site, lampposts, garden fences, walls, bus stops, children! Poor things. They remind me of turkeys during December…I wonder of they know their fate? They will all be slaughtered at the end of Ramadan.
Work is slower than normal!!! Staff sometimes take time off during Ramadan and others finish early to get home to prepare the only main meal of the day, Iftar (served at sundown, 19.30 ish). Additionally there appears to be even more resting/sleeping as staff are hungry from fasting and tired having been up early to eat before sunrise. It takes time to get used to this as from a Western perspective it seems incredible that work can suffer in this way. However, from a local perspective my view that this is unreasonable seems equally incredible…imagine work being more important than gods will?
So when in Rome and all that, I’m trying to adjust and just cope with the local pace of things.
Socially I’m back into the swing of things here. Whilst I was away Julie basically lived my life for me as she spent August in Kombos teaching teachers at Gambia College. I arrived back to a full diary of events (sporting and parties really). I’ve moved her out of my house and taken back my life again so am really busy!!
In addition to playing touch rugby I have also attempted Ultimate Frisbee. I’m terrible as it helps to be both tall and strong (hardly a description of me!) but it does involve a fair amount of running about so at least its keeping me fit. And so far I’ve been to about 6 parties…more of which in my next September update!
Weather here is slowly getting dryer but it is still incredibly humid and hot. The rains do still come but only maybe twice per week and in spectacular fashion! We just have to persevere until late October when it cools down again and the rains completely stop. Ironically I seem to have a problem with my water just now so much of the time my running water isn’t working. I can’t understand it but not much I can do about it other than keep filling up the buckets!
This time of year is Malaria season and so far 2 volunteers have had it (both are fine now). I am taking my tablets and doing my best to avoid getting bitten but unless you are prepared to hibernate for the rainy season then there is no chance of avoiding the mossies completely. The landscape of my local area has changed considerably over the past 2 months. You can see from the photographs that everywhere is much greener and more pleasant. I hardly notice that I live next door to the rubbish tip anymore.
We are currently in the month of Ramadan which does impact quite noticeably on day to day life here. Firstly all Muslims (about 90% of the population in The Gambia) fast completely during daylight hours (roughly 7 am to 19.30 pm). This fasting is known as sawm. As a non Muslim you are not expected to observe sawm (which includes all liquids as well as food) but it seems insensitive to eat and drink in front of local colleagues. This means that many of us ‘toubabs’ are seen hiding behind doors having sneaky swigs of water or bites to eat! It’s much harder to buy food on the street as I tended to do for breakfast and lunch each day and my journey home is much quicker as I’m so hungry by then that I’m literally racing to the fridge/cupboard to grab something, anything to eat!
In addition to fasting there are other changes to daily life. Men tend to be much stricter about their contact with women. Many colleagues won’t shake my hand at work for the moment as they are not supposed to have much contact with women other than their wives or mothers (there should be no impure thoughts during Ramadan!). Prayer time is observed much more strictly too and includes additional prayers. Many people will also pay Zakat if they can afford to do so. This means that wealth beyond what is require for day to day living is donated to the poor. It can be paid throughout the year but many Muslims calculate it during Ramadan or just observe it during this holy month.
And the goats…..they are literally tethered to everything in site, lampposts, garden fences, walls, bus stops, children! Poor things. They remind me of turkeys during December…I wonder of they know their fate? They will all be slaughtered at the end of Ramadan.
Work is slower than normal!!! Staff sometimes take time off during Ramadan and others finish early to get home to prepare the only main meal of the day, Iftar (served at sundown, 19.30 ish). Additionally there appears to be even more resting/sleeping as staff are hungry from fasting and tired having been up early to eat before sunrise. It takes time to get used to this as from a Western perspective it seems incredible that work can suffer in this way. However, from a local perspective my view that this is unreasonable seems equally incredible…imagine work being more important than gods will?
So when in Rome and all that, I’m trying to adjust and just cope with the local pace of things.
Socially I’m back into the swing of things here. Whilst I was away Julie basically lived my life for me as she spent August in Kombos teaching teachers at Gambia College. I arrived back to a full diary of events (sporting and parties really). I’ve moved her out of my house and taken back my life again so am really busy!!
In addition to playing touch rugby I have also attempted Ultimate Frisbee. I’m terrible as it helps to be both tall and strong (hardly a description of me!) but it does involve a fair amount of running about so at least its keeping me fit. And so far I’ve been to about 6 parties…more of which in my next September update!
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Local Area - From my roof after the rains!
1 comment:
Hello, I like this blog.
Sorry not write more, but my English is not good.
A hug from Portugal
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